Tag Archive for: Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails

Silverton Day Trip from Grand Junction

Guest Post by Michelle Aspelin

It was late October when we took our most recent Silverton day trip from Grand Junction. We have been there two other times and always enjoyed this calm, scenic mountain town.

Our first experience in Silverton CO was in 2021 when we drove from Arizona to Grand Junction to see our daughter on our way back to Minnesota. From Grand Junction we drove south along Hwy 550 to Durango. We hit many small towns in Colorado before turning north to Minnesota. That trip included our first experience on the Million Dollar Highway.

The Million Dollar Highway

We didn’t do much research about the Million Dollar Highway our first time to Silverton. I thought it was all about the “million-dollar views”. Boy, were we surprised! Paul drove with white knuckles while I could barely look out the side window down the 1000’ cliff. We both watched the road as we twisted and turned along the side of the mountain and the cliff. No guardrails. Speed limit gets down to 15 mph because of the tight curves. Once we made it safely to Durango, I looked it up online and the first website to pop up was “Most Dangerous Roads” … gulp! I texted our daughter’s boyfriend at the time, Josh, and asked him about people dying on that road. And his reply, I remember to this day, “Yeah, about a dozen people die each year on that road but it’s mostly during the winter so you don’t really need to worry.”  What?!?!?!

The second time we drove it was to give our relatives a chance to see Silverton and the Road while they were visiting. I sat behind the driver vs in the passenger seat, and it went much smoother. The most recent time was in October 2025 and this time we stopped along the way and really took in the experience. We are more comfortable driving on the mountain roads now. It was much more enjoyable. We went on a Sunday when the Broncos were playing, so there was hardly any traffic on the road which made a huge difference. The first time we drove it a semi carrying logging timber came around the corner and Paul practically came to a stop in his lane (we were only going about 15 mph anyway) until the semi passed and we both gave a sigh of relief.

The Million Dollar Highway is officially the stretch of Hwy 550 between Ouray and Silverton, part of the larger San Juan Skyway that makes a big loop in SW Colorado. About halfway, you go over Red Mountain Pass (10,899 ft. elevation). It’s very beautiful. There are only parts of the road with the steep drop-offs and absolutely no shoulder. Other times it flattens out and gets wide as you go through a valley closer to Silverton. I think it’s something everyone should experience once. Just go slowly and only go in good weather without snow on the ground or rain so you can enjoy it. I feel like every day trip we take is like a mini vacation. We get so lost in the experience of it all, it’s a great break.


Red Mountain Pass and Yankee Girl Mine

This is a stunning part of Hwy 550. There are actually 3 Red Mountains, named 1, 2 and 3 that stand out against the deep blue sky. There is a pullout near the top, on the north side of the pass that explains the multitude of mines in this area. It is there that we learned that the Yankee Girl Mine was one of the most profitable silver mines in the United States.

The Yankee Girl mine went nearly straight down to a depth of 1200 vertical feet. The remaining structure serves as a relic of the area’s rich mining history, and it was fun to photograph it. It was in operation from 1882 to 1890. The Yankee Girl Mine helped bring attention to the Red Mountain Mining District, which eventually became a significant mining area known around the world.


Silverton Durango Narrow Gauge Railroad

Another way to get to Silverton is to take the train north from Durango. The train drops passengers off in the downtown business district. There was a train at the station when we last visited. You can start your adventure when the train drops you off and visit the many shops, galleries, and restaurants. They offer a round trip from Durango with a 2-hour layover in Silverton or trips with an overnight stay in Silverton. There’s a special Polar Express experience during the holiday season. Get your tickets and more information at https://www.durangotrain.com.

Silverton Mountain Backcountry Ski Area

Paul gets asked a lot by clients coming in from out of state about the closest place to downhill ski. We tell them about Powderhorn Mountain Resort on the Grand Mesa or Telluride Ski Resort. But did you know that Silverton has a chairlift? It’s at Silverton Mountain about 6 miles out of town. This is no ordinary resort, in fact, there is no resort at all. Just a chairlift.

Silverton Mountain describes the experience like this. “Imagine a place where the average total snowfall of over 400 inches exceeds the amount of daily visitors. Advanced and expert only riding, no groomers, no clearcut runs and a real mountain experience with plenty of adventure on tap. All thrills, no frills.” That’s right, we saw the chairlift but no clearcut ski runs through the trees. They offer heliskiing where a helicopter drops you off, up to six times in one day, to ski Silverton’s backcountry. Be sure to bring your own food and water. They rent ski and snowboard equipment suitable for the area. It’s open to the public Thursday-Sundays during the winter and spring ski season. Private heliskiing is available 7 days a week, including Monday through Wednesday when mountain operations are closed. Learn more at https://silvertonmountain.com.


The Town of Silverton, Colorado

Ok, enough about getting to Silverton, let’s talk about what you can do while you are there for your Silverton day trip from Grand Junction. Silverton is a tiny, historic mountain town with a little over 700 residents. There are miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains surrounding the town that serve as their playground with great jeeping, hiking, biking, mountaineering, fishing, ATVing, and river running. It’s an official Colorado Creative District offering a vibrant arts community. They have outdoor music and many festivals and events during the summer months, including a farmers market in July, August and September.

The buildings are mostly classic Victorian era including the notorious Blair Street, home to bars, brothels and bunkhouses for the miners. It’s now home to shops, art galleries and restaurants, some with funky names.  The main street is called Greene Street, and I think it’s the only paved road through town. It’s small but charming and welcoming. We ate at a saloon on Greene Street that still had a bullet in the wall behind the bar from the “wild west” days. The Silverton Cemetery attracts visitors during the day and even at night to experience some paranormal activities. Some buildings are said to be haunted as well. There are museums and mine tours to learn about the rich mining history.

We saw a small grocery store. There are hotels and RV Parks with cabin rentals if you want to stay the night and continue your adventure. Maybe rent an ATV and do the Alpine Loop? There are loads of small creeks that lead into the Cement Creek, Animas River and Mineral Creek. The scenery is stunning everywhere you look, just like most of Colorado.

Access the Alpine Loop

You can stay in Silverton and access the 63-mile Alpine Loop. From Silverton, the Alpine Loop connects with Lake City and there’s another access from Hwy 550 on the Million Dollar Highway that takes you to Ouray. ATVs are no longer allowed to drive through town, so you’ll need to trailer them up to a staging area or have someone drop you off for your adventure. Plan on a full day, or more, to drive the loop. The Alpine Loop is demanding, and you need to be prepared. The two 12,000-foot passes (Cinnamon and Engineer) require a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle, but the well-prepared traveler reaps the rewards: pristine mountain views, abundant wildflowers, hiking and biking trails, great camping opportunities, and ample solitude in the heart of the San Juan Mountains.

These rocky roads were first used by 19th-century miners, who carted their ore to Silverton, Ouray, and Lake City in mule-drawn wagons. They weren’t built for automobiles. There are seven ghost towns along the loop. We’d like to see Animas Forks Ghost Town someday. Make sure someone knows your travel plans and do your homework before you start your trip. Be sure you have a full tank of gas and ample food and water supplies as there are no services along the Alpine Loop itself. Oh, and it’s closed in winter. We haven’t driven the loop, we just drove a small portion from Silverton and we went a few miles on it from Lake City.  Someday we will rent ATVs and experience the full loop.

In Silverton, you can rent ATVs, golf carts, e-bikes, mountain bikes, go horseback riding and participate in guided hikes. There are all sorts of outdoor adventures you can take advantage of on a Silverton day trip from Grand Junction. I really enjoyed strolling the main street and going into the shops and galleries.

Book Recommendation

If you want to experience the 4×4 and jeeping backcountry roads in Colorado, I highly recommend the book by Charles A. Wells called “Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails” and there is a “Northern” version for roads north of I-70. I was able to snag the book at a Friends of the Library book sale, and I purchased the northern version, a spiral bound book, but we haven’t ventured north of I-70 yet. The San Juans keep pulling us south.

The books categorize the trails by easy, moderate, or difficult. They include photos, detailed maps, and descriptions about what to expect at what mile point along the trail. It helps keep us out of trouble. We stick to the “easy” roads. However, we took one 4×4 only trail in our Tacoma, Washington Gulch, to get us to Emerald Lake from Crested Butte. THAT was amazing but we got lucky. That particular road wasn’t in the book, and I think it was definitely a moderate trail. Not good for our first experience! Ask Paul to tell you the story about our trip and what the lady at the Visitor Center advised us to do! Lesson learned, do your own homework first and know your limits.

There are so many day trips from Grand Junction you can enjoy. There are so many places to go within 2-3 hours of here. And it’s always scenic along the way. I hope you enjoyed this post about a Silverton day trip. If you want us to write about others, let Paul know. There is so much to see and do in Grand Junction and the surrounding mountain and desert communities. Paul has lots of stories he can share.

Red Mountain Pass mining district overlook

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Guest Post by Michelle Aspelin
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The Day of the Last Dollar and Telluride

What an amazing day trip to Telluride! What started out as just a Last Dollar Road day trip also included discovering where Last Dollar Ranch was, the house in the John Wayne movie True Grit, Ralph Lauren’s Double R Ranch, Last Dollar Pass, Tom Cruise’s old neighborhood, the Telluride one runway regional airport and drinks on the roof of the Last Dollar Saloon. Oh yes, and an indescribable experience of a Mushroom Parade down the main street in Telluride! So unexpected, it left us speechless.

Why do a Last Dollar Road Day Trip?

Last Dollar Road Day Trip map showing 4x4 roadsFirst, let’s start with why we planned a Last Dollar Road day trip to begin with. Michelle has this book called Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails and the first trail in the book is Last Dollar Road. It’s rated as an “easy” trail vs moderate or hard. We prefer to only do the easy trails in our Toyota Tacoma since we are new at this. The book describes the trail as…

“This scenic ranchland and forest backroad is a great alternative to the paved drive between Ridgway and Telluride. Enjoy abundant wildflowers through early summer, great fall color and stunning mountain views.”

It is a rutted dirt road suitable for high-clearance, 2-wheel-drive vehicles when dry. Slick clay makes it impassable when wet, even for 4-wheel-drive vehicles. We wanted to see the stunning views of this mining supply road built in the 1800’s so we added it to our list of places to see. Because the road is only open in the summer, we went in August.

Where is Last Dollar Road?

Double RL Ranch overlook with view of the San Juan Mountains

Overlook at Double RL Ranch near Ridgway, CO

From Grand Junction, drive South on Hwy 50/550 to Ridgway, CO and turned right, or west. About 9 miles outside of Ridgway there is a scenic overlook we have stopped at many times to take photos of Mount Snuffles and Mount Wilson. It’s on Google Maps as “San Juan Mountains Scenic View”. See our most recent photo in this post.

What we didn’t realize until our return trip, is that fence you see, it goes on for about 20 miles, is the fence line for the Double RL Ranch, a rustic haven owned by American fashion designer Ralph Lauren and his wife Ricky. They own 17,000 acres and there’s an article online where Oprah describes her visit to the Double RL Ranch that includes some photos of his Americana themed ranch. Oprah also visited Tom Cruise’s old house in Telluride, which I will tell you about later, when we talk about the Telluride Airport. Plus, she has a home in Mountain Village!

The Amazing Drive Itself

House and Ranch in the John Wayne Movie True Grit near Ridgway, shows mountains and historic wood homeAfter the scenic overlook near Ridgway, we took a left onto CR-58P. There’s a sign for Last Dollar Road. The road is closed from January to May due to snow. This is where our Last Dollar Road day trip officially begins. The unpaved county road was wide and well maintained. Our first photo op was at Mattie Ross’ Ranch from the True Grit movie with John Wayne. True Grit was filmed in 1969 and begins and ends at the family ranch of young Mattie Ross (Kim Darby), which was filmed at a historic home on Last Dollar Road above Ridgway. In the final scene, John Wayne jumps his horse over a fence and rides off into the distance. The ranch house has been restored and remains private property. The scenery around it hasn’t changed much and is as gorgeous as it was then.

Last Dollar Road Caution SignWe left the county road and that’s where it got narrower, steeper, and rockier. We chuckled when we saw this warning sign. Luckily, we chose to drive the Last Dollar Road during dry conditions in August. It was amazing. We went through aspen groves, spruce-fir forests and open meadows with sweeping views. The road is very rutted due to snowmelt run-off down the mountain side. We drove about 5-10 miles per hour, sometimes using 4-wheel-drive Low to climb some steep slopes. We waited for cows to move off the road once. Didn’t pass any cars on the way up, up, up to Last Dollar Pass. Each bend in the road delivers jaw-dropping scenery.

At the top of the pass, we stopped at the popular overlook. I’m not sure what the spot is officially called but it was stunning. The views are unreal. There is a ramp where the road literally goes off a cliff. I saw a video of this and so we parked the Taco there too and took some photos! This is where we finally crossed paths with a Jeep and a couple of motorized dirt bikes.

Last Dollar Pass

Last Dollar Road shelf, narrow spot with drop-off on one sideAfter this we started our decent into Telluride. We hit a narrow stretch, wide enough for just one vehicle on this two-way shelf road. A few minutes later we passed a Jeep, and they rolled down their window to ask, “What road is this?” I answered the Last Dollar Road. The 75-year-old driver smirked and said, “I’m glad to hear you say that. We weren’t sure we were on the right road!” He drove off with his lovely wife. We smiled. They were more clueless that we were, but they were “doing it” at their age. That is why we take these trips while we can. While we are healthy and able to appreciate this beautiful state.

Telluride Airport

Parked near the Telluride airport with Mountain Village in the backgroundWe continued our decent and popped out right at the Telluride Regional Airport (TEX). It’s a one-runway regional airport and the end of the runway drops off into a deep canyon. We have seen the airport from the free Telluride Gondola that takes you from downtown Telluride up and over to Mountain Village. We joked at how short the runway is. Now, seeing it up close, it looks even shorter. It does curve upward at the end of the runway to give pilots a “lift” for takeoff. You can see Mountain Village behind the Taco in the photo we took at the airport entrance.

The Telluride Regional Airport is open year-round to commercial flights from Denver and Phoenix via United and American Airlines. However, I bet most of the traffic is from private jets and charter services. There was construction going on when we were there. They might be adding another taxiway and more hangars for all those private jets. Their website has a page about Do’s and Don’ts for high altitude mountain flying and warnings about weather, wind events, and the potential to be rerouted to other airports, like the Montrose/Telluride Regional Airport located an hour and a half north of Telluride.

Telluride Regional Airport

A Few Famous People

Near Telluride Airport is the residential community called Aldasoro Ranch. In 1913, the Aldasoro family moved to this area from Northern Spain to raise sheep and provide lamb and wool to the nearby mining camps. Eventually they subdivided their land into individual home sites. The family still lives here and now runs Telluride Sleights and Wagons, which offers sleigh rides and an event space with spectacular views.

I have joked with my friends about Tom Cruise living in Telluride. Here’s a link to Tom Cruise’s old 298-acre mountain retreat. I say old because he sold it in 2021. Here’s a unique tidbit we also discovered while on our Last Dollar road day trip. When Tom Cruise was dating Penelope Cruz back in the early 2000’s, she would take a short trail called the Breckenridge Trail near his estate. It’s a 2-mile route above the Telluride Airport near the Aldasoro community. However, locals call the trail Penelope’s or Penelope’s Cruise. I assume she was spotted using the trail when she visited.

I mentioned Oprah Winfrey earlier when I was talking about the Double RL Ranch. You may or may not know that Oprah has a house here too. Oprah Winfrey’s Telluride House.

Downtown Telluride

Last Dollar Saloon view of Telluride box canyon mountainside

View from the roof of the Telluride box canyon

As you approach downtown, you drive in on Colorado Ave, the main street. Telluride is in a box canyon with steep slopes and rugged mountains surrounding the laid-back and unforgettable town. We drove to the end of the street before we found the last on-street parking spot. We paid for 2 hours of parking ($5) and started exploring the downtown area. As expected, there are many unique shops and boutiques, restaurants and breweries, adventure guide outfitters, museums and galleries. We spotted the historic Last Dollar Saloon and decided to go in, given the theme of the day! We had drinks on the roof with great views of the Gondola, downtown, and the picturesque mountainside. Their website touts that they were named “#1 Best Skier Dive Bar in the World”, it seems fitting.

Michelle noticed people gathering below on the street. We did notice a banner for the Mushroom Festival when we came into town and folks gathered at Telluride Town Park. That’s why we got the last parking spot.

Mush Fest, formally known as the Mushroom Festival

Last Dollar Saloon roof looking down to Colorado AvenueThe Mushroom Festival was unexpected and eye-opening. People were dressed up as mushrooms, wearing mushroom hats and other unique costumes. It’s a weekend festival described on their website as “A weekend of mushroom love, community connection and fungi everything. You can expect expert hosted forays to ID mushrooms in the great San Juan Wilderness, talks from world renown mycologists, a foundation of the fest rooted off psychedelics and its current resurgence, large community gatherings, culinary delights, dozens of mushroom vendors and of course the world renown Telluride Mushroom Festival parade. Every year the festival attracts 1000’s of fungi fans from across the world.”

They sell tickets for their main event in the park. We just happened to witness the parade of mushroom lovers down Colorado Ave. Some looked, well, high on shrooms, and others just strolled down the street in their fancy costumes. The town of Telluride quite literally shuts down to 1000’s of mushroom people marching down Main Street to music, dancers, drummers and some pushed a mushroom vehicle known as Amanita-mobile down the street.

After the Mushroom Parade “experience” we got dinner at Steamies Burger Bar. While we didn’t have their specialty steamed burgers, we definitely enjoyed our food. Michelle had a cup of the Truffle Herb Mac-n-Cheese and I had a great chicken wrap sandwich. The Visit Telluride website has a list of events by season and a lot more.

Wrapping It Up

Last Dollar Road sign on the Telluride sideWe sure loved our Last Dollar Road day trip. I think we will be talking about everything we experienced for years to come. We loved the gorgeous aspen forest with unobstructed views of Sneffels Mountain Range and Wilson Peak. The range of colors from brown, green, and red against the bright blue sky was so beautiful. I forgot to mention that we noticed some forest service road camp sites on the Telluride side of the pass. There were no bathrooms, water or other services along the trail. It’s as rustic as it gets. We loved seeing the large ranches on the Ridgway side and the views from the Last Dollar Pass at an elevation of 10,663 feet. If we had family or friends in town, we might drive to Telluride on the highway and just go up to the Last Dollar Pass from Telluride and back down again. That would take less time and still offer spectacular views. Until next time!

I mention Telluride and Mountain Village in my post called Top Day Trips from Grand Junction with additional photos. This was the first time we visited Telluride without taking the Gondola up to Mountain Village.

Move to Grand Junction and Do Day Trips Like This One!

Paul Aspelin standing at the Double RL Ranch fence overlooking the San Juan Mountains

Double RL Ranch fence overlooking the San Juan Mountains

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PAUL ASPELIN, REALTOR®
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Grand Junction Real Estate Expert
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