The Day of the Last Dollar and Telluride
What an amazing day trip to Telluride! What started out as just a Last Dollar Road day trip also included discovering where Last Dollar Ranch was, the house in the John Wayne movie True Grit, Ralph Lauren’s Double R Ranch, Last Dollar Pass, Tom Cruise’s old neighborhood, the Telluride one runway regional airport and drinks on the roof of the Last Dollar Saloon. Oh yes, and an indescribable experience of a Mushroom Parade down the main street in Telluride! So unexpected, it left us speechless.
Why do a Last Dollar Road Day Trip?
First, let’s start with why we planned a Last Dollar Road day trip to begin with. Michelle has this book called Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails and the first trail in the book is Last Dollar Road. It’s rated as an “easy” trail vs moderate or hard. We prefer to only do the easy trails in our Toyota Tacoma since we are new at this. The book describes the trail as…
“This scenic ranchland and forest backroad is a great alternative to the paved drive between Ridgway and Telluride. Enjoy abundant wildflowers through early summer, great fall color and stunning mountain views.”
It is a rutted dirt road suitable for high-clearance, 2-wheel-drive vehicles when dry. Slick clay makes it impassable when wet, even for 4-wheel-drive vehicles. We wanted to see the stunning views of this mining supply road built in the 1800’s so we added it to our list of places to see. Because the road is only open in the summer, we went in August.
Where is Last Dollar Road?

Overlook at Double RL Ranch near Ridgway, CO
From Grand Junction, drive South on Hwy 50/550 to Ridgway, CO and turned right, or west. About 9 miles outside of Ridgway there is a scenic overlook we have stopped at many times to take photos of Mount Snuffles and Mount Wilson. It’s on Google Maps as “San Juan Mountains Scenic View”. See our most recent photo in this post.
What we didn’t realize until our return trip, is that fence you see, it goes on for about 20 miles, is the fence line for the Double RL Ranch, a rustic haven owned by American fashion designer Ralph Lauren and his wife Ricky. They own 17,000 acres and there’s an article online where Oprah describes her visit to the Double RL Ranch that includes some photos of his Americana themed ranch. Oprah also visited Tom Cruise’s old house in Telluride, which I will tell you about later, when we talk about the Telluride Airport. Plus, she has a home in Mountain Village!
The Amazing Drive Itself
After the scenic overlook near Ridgway, we took a left onto CR-58P. There’s a sign for Last Dollar Road. The road is closed from January to May due to snow. This is where our Last Dollar Road day trip officially begins. The unpaved county road was wide and well maintained. Our first photo op was at Mattie Ross’ Ranch from the True Grit movie with John Wayne. True Grit was filmed in 1969 and begins and ends at the family ranch of young Mattie Ross (Kim Darby), which was filmed at a historic home on Last Dollar Road above Ridgway. In the final scene, John Wayne jumps his horse over a fence and rides off into the distance. The ranch house has been restored and remains private property. The scenery around it hasn’t changed much and is as gorgeous as it was then.
We left the county road and that’s where it got narrower, steeper, and rockier. We chuckled when we saw this warning sign. Luckily, we chose to drive the Last Dollar Road during dry conditions in August. It was amazing. We went through aspen groves, spruce-fir forests and open meadows with sweeping views. The road is very rutted due to snowmelt run-off down the mountain side. We drove about 5-10 miles per hour, sometimes using 4-wheel-drive Low to climb some steep slopes. We waited for cows to move off the road once. Didn’t pass any cars on the way up, up, up to Last Dollar Pass. Each bend in the road delivers jaw-dropping scenery.
At the top of the pass, we stopped at the popular overlook. I’m not sure what the spot is officially called but it was stunning. The views are unreal. There is a ramp where the road literally goes off a cliff. I saw a video of this and so we parked the Taco there too and took some photos! This is where we finally crossed paths with a Jeep and a couple of motorized dirt bikes.

After this we started our decent into Telluride. We hit a narrow stretch, wide enough for just one vehicle on this two-way shelf road. A few minutes later we passed a Jeep, and they rolled down their window to ask, “What road is this?” I answered the Last Dollar Road. The 75-year-old driver smirked and said, “I’m glad to hear you say that. We weren’t sure we were on the right road!” He drove off with his lovely wife. We smiled. They were more clueless that we were, but they were “doing it” at their age. That is why we take these trips while we can. While we are healthy and able to appreciate this beautiful state.
Telluride Airport
We continued our decent and popped out right at the Telluride Regional Airport (TEX). It’s a one-runway regional airport and the end of the runway drops off into a deep canyon. We have seen the airport from the free Telluride Gondola that takes you from downtown Telluride up and over to Mountain Village. We joked at how short the runway is. Now, seeing it up close, it looks even shorter. It does curve upward at the end of the runway to give pilots a “lift” for takeoff. You can see Mountain Village behind the Taco in the photo we took at the airport entrance.
The Telluride Regional Airport is open year-round to commercial flights from Denver and Phoenix via United and American Airlines. However, I bet most of the traffic is from private jets and charter services. There was construction going on when we were there. They might be adding another taxiway and more hangars for all those private jets. Their website has a page about Do’s and Don’ts for high altitude mountain flying and warnings about weather, wind events, and the potential to be rerouted to other airports, like the Montrose/Telluride Regional Airport located an hour and a half north of Telluride.

A Few Famous People
Near Telluride Airport is the residential community called Aldasoro Ranch. In 1913, the Aldasoro family moved to this area from Northern Spain to raise sheep and provide lamb and wool to the nearby mining camps. Eventually they subdivided their land into individual home sites. The family still lives here and now runs Telluride Sleights and Wagons, which offers sleigh rides and an event space with spectacular views.
I have joked with my friends about Tom Cruise living in Telluride. Here’s a link to Tom Cruise’s old 298-acre mountain retreat. I say old because he sold it in 2021. Here’s a unique tidbit we also discovered while on our Last Dollar road day trip. When Tom Cruise was dating Penelope Cruz back in the early 2000’s, she would take a short trail called the Breckenridge Trail near his estate. It’s a 2-mile route above the Telluride Airport near the Aldasoro community. However, locals call the trail Penelope’s or Penelope’s Cruise. I assume she was spotted using the trail when she visited.
I mentioned Oprah Winfrey earlier when I was talking about the Double RL Ranch. You may or may not know that Oprah has a house here too. Oprah Winfrey’s Telluride House.
Downtown Telluride

View from the roof of the Telluride box canyon
As you approach downtown, you drive in on Colorado Ave, the main street. Telluride is in a box canyon with steep slopes and rugged mountains surrounding the laid-back and unforgettable town. We drove to the end of the street before we found the last on-street parking spot. We paid for 2 hours of parking ($5) and started exploring the downtown area. As expected, there are many unique shops and boutiques, restaurants and breweries, adventure guide outfitters, museums and galleries. We spotted the historic Last Dollar Saloon and decided to go in, given the theme of the day! We had drinks on the roof with great views of the Gondola, downtown, and the picturesque mountainside. Their website touts that they were named “#1 Best Skier Dive Bar in the World”, it seems fitting.
Michelle noticed people gathering below on the street. We did notice a banner for the Mushroom Festival when we came into town and folks gathered at Telluride Town Park. That’s why we got the last parking spot.
Mush Fest, formally known as the Mushroom Festival
The Mushroom Festival was unexpected and eye-opening. People were dressed up as mushrooms, wearing mushroom hats and other unique costumes. It’s a weekend festival described on their website as “A weekend of mushroom love, community connection and fungi everything. You can expect expert hosted forays to ID mushrooms in the great San Juan Wilderness, talks from world renown mycologists, a foundation of the fest rooted off psychedelics and its current resurgence, large community gatherings, culinary delights, dozens of mushroom vendors and of course the world renown Telluride Mushroom Festival parade. Every year the festival attracts 1000’s of fungi fans from across the world.”
They sell tickets for their main event in the park. We just happened to witness the parade of mushroom lovers down Colorado Ave. Some looked, well, high on shrooms, and others just strolled down the street in their fancy costumes. The town of Telluride quite literally shuts down to 1000’s of mushroom people marching down Main Street to music, dancers, drummers and some pushed a mushroom vehicle known as Amanita-mobile down the street.
After the Mushroom Parade “experience” we got dinner at Steamies Burger Bar. While we didn’t have their specialty steamed burgers, we definitely enjoyed our food. Michelle had a cup of the Truffle Herb Mac-n-Cheese and I had a great chicken wrap sandwich. The Visit Telluride website has a list of events by season and a lot more.
Wrapping It Up
We sure loved our Last Dollar Road day trip. I think we will be talking about everything we experienced for years to come. We loved the gorgeous aspen forest with unobstructed views of Sneffels Mountain Range and Wilson Peak. The range of colors from brown, green, and red against the bright blue sky was so beautiful. I forgot to mention that we noticed some forest service road camp sites on the Telluride side of the pass. There were no bathrooms, water or other services along the trail. It’s as rustic as it gets. We loved seeing the large ranches on the Ridgway side and the views from the Last Dollar Pass at an elevation of 10,663 feet. If we had family or friends in town, we might drive to Telluride on the highway and just go up to the Last Dollar Pass from Telluride and back down again. That would take less time and still offer spectacular views. Until next time!
I mention Telluride and Mountain Village in my post called Top Day Trips from Grand Junction with additional photos. This was the first time we visited Telluride without taking the Gondola up to Mountain Village.
Move to Grand Junction and Do Day Trips Like This One!

Double RL Ranch fence overlooking the San Juan Mountains
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